I just installed the HTMLArea module for Drupal on the weblogs.ucalgary.ca server. Wow. That's one nice WYSIWYG editor! And I'm someone that usually hates WYSIWYG editors because of the craptacular code they typically spew out (like the last 2 I'd tried on that server).
This one appears to create nice, clean, semantic markup. And offers a "full screen" mode to give you essentially a "Dreamweaver Lite" experience - OK it's more like "Dreamweaver Extremely Light", but more than adequate.
The one downside - it doesn't work in Safari because contenteditable isn't supported (yet). But, it degrades cleanly (and silently) to a simple textarea element, so there's nothing lost there.
I'm wondering if I can get this running in WordPress as well. I might actually use this one...